Northern Albania: Discover Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe

Everyone is talking about the Albanian Riviera – but no-one is sharing the magic of North Albania! From the communist history of Shkodër to the spectacular views of the Albanian Alps from Malësi e Madhe to Theth and Valbona. I spent several weeks exploring over 2,000km of Albania from top to toe – until the borders with North Macedonia, Montenegro and Greece. While the beaches and coastline of the south was just as beautiful as I had heard, it was the mountains of the Albanian Alps that really captured my imagination. If you're visiting Albania and not exploring the mountains in the north – did you even go to Albania?

From castles with 360º panoramic views dating back 2,500 years, to rural fishing villages on the banks of Lake Shkodra and stand-up paddle-boarding – to sunsets, stargazing and hiking in the mountains, and driving the famous Top Gear mountain road. The north of Albania is home to the Albanian Alps – so often forgotten in favour of the ever popular Dolomites or other mountain regions, but this part of the Balkans has jaw-dropping views and a peace that busier mountain regions have lost as they have become more popular. This blog post will share the ultimate itinerary for visiting this part of Albania and connecting with the country in a slower, more authentic and sustainable way.

I'm a solo travel expert with a taste for adventure and 10+ years experience travelling to nearly 60 countries worldwide. Keep reading my travel guides for all the best tips on making your solo travel dreams a reality and the adventures you need to experience in your lifetime – we'll even do it all on a budget and make sure that you're having a positive impact along the way.

Don't forget to read my blog post on my adventures in Pogradec & Lake Ohrid – Albania's Hidden Gem

This part of my Albania trip was a press trip with Green Adventures In Albania – GAIA Albania, in collaboration with VIS - International Volunteering for Development, COSV - Coordinamento delle Organizzazioni per il Servizio Volontario and Agenzia Italiana per la Cooperazione allo Sviluppo - Sede di Tirana but all opinions remain my own.

Visiting Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe? Here's where you'll find:

1. Why should I travel to Shkodër / Shkodra & Malësi e Madhe?
2. The History of Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe
3. Tips For Finding Cheap Flights To Albania
4. Travelling to Shkoder – How To Get To Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe
5. Where To Stay In Shkodër – Best Hotels In Shkodra & Malësi e Madhe
6. Where to Eat in Shkoder – Best Restaurants in Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe
7. The Best Things To Do In Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe
8. 3 Day Itinerary for Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe

Why should I travel to Shkodër Albania?

If you're looking to experience a side of Albania's authentic culture and traditions beyond just the beach clubs of the Albanian Riviera – Shkodër is the best place to start. Every Albanian I met told me it was by far their favourite city in the country and it oozes history, culture and charm in a way that the South is lacking. Located around 90km from Tirana, Shkodra is on the doorstep of the Albanian Alps, but still has so much to offer including Rozafa Castle (fortress of Shkodra) which is one of the biggest and most famous castles in Albania.

Did you know that Shkodër is one of the oldest cities in Europe? It's also the traditional centre of the Gheg cultural region and a lively hub of live music and nightlife with street performances every night in the summer. If you're travelling to the North of Albania, I highly recommend stopping in Shkodra for at least a day or two to explore.

The History of Shkodra & Malësi e Madhe

North Albania has a rich history interwoven by wars and communism which have played a big part in shaping the culture of Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe. Located close to the border with Montenegro, Northern Albania has faced hard times including several wars against Serb-Montenegrin and Ottoman forces. The city of Shkodra was founded in the fourth century BC by the Illyrian tribe Labeats and the city of Shkodër has been inhabited since the Early Bronze Age (2250–2000 BC) boasting 2,200 years of history. If you do visit the city, make sure to spend time learning more about the city's challenging history and don't forget to visit the House of Leaves Museum and Bunk'Art in Tirana to hear more about communist times in Albania.

With a population of over 10,339, Shkoder is home to mostly ethnic Albanians. The name “Shkodra” is derived from "Shko-drin" which means “Go Drin” or “ Drin goes." The other names used for this city are “”Scutari,” and ”Scodri.” All of them have meaning and are Albanian words in today's Albanian language. Did you know that in 1905, the first football in the history of Albania was held in Shkodra?

Tips For Finding Cheap Flights To Albania

If you're searching for cheap flights to Albania – always be sure to start with Skyscanner! There are two different flight options to reach your destination:

Fly from London to Tirana

One option is to book a flight from London to Tirana – the capital city – then hire a car and drive to Shkodër. This is the option I took and I met the group I travelled with in Tirana for the beginning of the trip after flying solo with Ryanair from London Stansted. There are currently around 49 flights weekly from London to Tirana and you can fly with airlines including Wizz Air, Ryanair. and British Airways. The cheapest return flight to Tirana is just £31 and November is the cheapest month to fly, with the flight taking around 3 hours.

> Find cheap flights from London to Tirana

Fly from London to Corfu

If you would like to take a longer trip and travel up to the North from the Albanian Riviera, there is the opportunity to fly from London to Corfu and spent time on the island before catching a 30-40 minute ferry across to Sarande, on the Albanian Riviera. There are 43 flights weekly from London to Corfu available with airlines including easyJet, British Airways and TUI – the flight takes just 3 hrs and 16 mins. Return flights start from £62 and the cheapest month to fly is November.

> Find cheap flights from London to Corfu

How To Get To Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe

Hiring a Car in Albania

If you're visiting Albania and plan to explore several different areas and particularly more remote parts like Shkodra and Malësi e Madhe, I recommend hiring a car in Albania. Shkodër is located 1.5 hours drive from Tirana and is accessible by bus, but if you wish to venture out to mountain areas like the Lepushe, you will need transport to reach some of the destinations. Car hire starts from just £21 per day and generally the roads are good in Albania – in many places much better than UK roads – they were certainly much better than I expected and it was only driving on the mountain roads in the North which proved at all stressful but definitely still very manageable.

If you would like to hire a car in Albania – I recommend booking through Discover Cars which I did for the latter half of my trip and my hire vehicle was booked through AbbyCar.

Travel by Bus from Tirana to Pogradec

If you prefer to travel by bus, there are buses available leaving every 30 minutes from Tirana to Shkodra so check to see what time you would like to leave. A one-way bus ticket from Tirana to Shkodra costs 400 Leke (€3.30) and a return bus trip from Tirana to Shkoder costs 800 Leke (€6.60). The bus is supposed to take around 1 hour 48 mins – however please remember that you are on Albanian time and things tend to take longer than you expect so allow extra time for your journey.

Best Hotels In Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe

There are two hotels that you need to stay at when visiting the North of Albania:

Best Hotel In Shkodra

Stay at Hotel Aleks when visiting Shkodra – it's a great option for those travelling on a budget who want to stay near the heart of Shkodër while still enjoying the peace of the city. Set a few streets away from the busiest and liveliest area, this 3 start hotel offers huge, spacious rooms with air conditioning, balconies and private bathrooms. The rooms have every comfort and best of all, this is a family-run accommodation where the family live in the adjoining building and grow all their own produce. For an authentic and welcoming homestay feel with the comforts of a hotel – look no further than Hotel Aleks. They're such a welcoming and lovely family, we enjoyed sharing breakfast with them and hearing all their stories and recommendations for the area. The hotel also offers bikes free of charge for those who wish to explore Shkodër.

> Book a stay at Hotel Aleks

Best Hotel In Malësi e Madhe

One of my favourite stays from my trip to Albania was Hotel Alpini Lepushe, a traditional alpine lodge nestled in the valley of Lepushe – considered one of the most picturesque alpine villages in Albania. In the heart of the Albanian Alps, this accommodation is simple but provides an authentic stay that allows visitors to really connect with the beautiful surroundings from campfires under the stars and stargazing, to nearby hiking trails and locally produced meals. Set just 32 km from Prokletije National Park and 11 minutes' stroll from Qafa e Bordolecit Mountain Pass, Guesthouse Alpini offers comfortable 3 star accommodation and unparalleled views of the valley and Accursed Mountains. 

> Book a stay at Hotel Alpini Lepushe

Best Restaurants in Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe

Northern Albania has some great opportunities to eat authentic locally produced, Albanian cuisine in the most beautiful locations while having a positive impact on the local community. If you're looking for some great culinary experiences and initiatives – don't miss the best restaurants in Shkodra & Malësi e Madhe:

Arti i Zanave – Shkodra

Arti i Zanave in Shkodra is a restaurant and social enterprise supporting a cause close to my heart – profits go towards supporting women survivors of domestic violence and their children. Several women working at the restaurant are survivors or the daughters of women who escaped from violent and abusive relationships in the most rural areas of Albania, particularly the mountains of Albania. The food is delicious and there are also opportunities to buy jewellery made by women survivors to further support their cause. If you're interested in giving back to the local community and want to have a positive impact when you travel, this is a great cause to support.

Bar Restaurant Elita – Shkodra

Another delicious eat when exploring Shkodra, Bar Restaurant Elita serves delicious Italian-Albanian cuisine and I highly recommend the cheesy ravioli dish – it was divine!

Pelikani Kaçurrel – Zogaj

If you're exploring the remote fishing village, Zogaj, on the banks of Lake Shkodra, be sure to stop for lunch with 180º panoramic views across the lake. Pelikani Kaçurrel serves delicious fresh fish and traditional Albanian salads, meats and cheeses which are super tasty. There's also some really interesting displays of traditional Albanian clothing and historic items, and of course, lots of cute cats!

Hotel Alpini – Lepushe

Hotel Alpini in Lepushe is more than just a place to sleep – this hotel has a really authentic homestay feel and the family serve lots of local produce including specialities such as Mishavina cheese – part of the Slow Food Presidia – local honey and meat. Dinner here is hearty and a perfect combination with the fresh mountain air, clear skies full of stars and the smoke of the campfire just outside.

Syri i Sheganit – North Albania

Albania is bordered by several countries, so when visiting the Albanian Alps, you must take a trip to the Albanian-Montenegrin border where you can fully immerse yourself in nature. Dine at Syri i Sheganit for delicious, traditional Albanian cuisine including fresh fish and meat with unbeatable views of the border with Montegro, the beautiful lake and mountains. You can enjoy a peaceful boat ride, dive into the Eye of Shegan with local boys, and have lunch with a stunning lake view at the Syri i Sënginit restaurant.

The Best Things To Do In Shkodër & Malësi e Madhe

Stargazing & campfire in the Albanian Alps

Do not visit the Albanian Alps without planning a stay at an alpine lodge surrounded by mountains. Trust me, you'll want to stay overnight because while the daytime views are jaw-dropping – it's when the stars come out at night that truly takes your breath away! One of my favourite experiences of the whole trip was stargazing and enjoying a campfire in the Albanian Alps.

Swimming in the River Cem at Tamara

When you're driving through the mountains of Malësi e Madhe, don't miss a stop in Tamarä. It's a peaceful alpine village where you can shop for local crafts and head down to the Cem River where there's a beautiful place to stop and swim in the crystal clear waters and enjoy the views.

Visit Salvia Nord for medicinal herbs

Stopping at Salvia Nord was an unexpected gem of my trip to Northern Albania – this local producer of lavender, sage and medicinal herbs grows all his own herbs and flowers. These are then turned into essential oils and healing cures – a beautiful example of locally produced herbs and plants being used to create an authentic experience where you can connect with locals.

Learn about Shkodra's Communist History

One thing I really recommend is taking some time during your visit to Albania to learn about the country's Communist history – it's fascinating and terrifying at the same time but helps to provide so much context to the modern day. If you're in Tirana – take time to visit the House of Leaves Museum and Bunk'Art which are super informative. Then when you visit Shkodra, you will already have the background to understand Northern Albania's stories in a walking tour of the city.

> Check out this Local Food Experience and Walking Tour in Shkodër

Enjoy live music in the streets of Shkodra

Did you know that Shkoder is one of the liveliest cities in the country? If you're visiting Northern Albania, it's a great place to stop in the summer when there is live music every night in the streets of the old town and lakeside promenade.

Visit Shkodra Castle (Rozafa Castle) for panoramic views

Shkodra Castle offers spectacular 360º panoramic views and an incredible history dating back 2,500+ years. Also known as Rozafa Castle, the imposing ruins are one of Albania's most iconic landmarks and overlook the Buna and Drin Rivers. This ancient fortress has a fascinating legend of sacrifice and devotion – the legend of Rozafa. According to folklore, the wife of one of the three brothers building the fortress was walled into the structure to keep it from collapsing. 

If you're interested in a castle-themed tour of Northern Albania – check out this tour which visits:

• Kruja Castle
• Museum of Scanderbeg and Medieval Bazaar
• Rozafa Castle
• Shkodra promenade and Lake of Shkodra

> Book this tour now!

Visit a traditional weaving workshop in Zogaj

Support female business owners by visiting a traditional weaving workshop in fishing village, Zogaj, where local ladies create handmade runs which have been patiently crafted using looms.

Swimming, stand-up paddle boarding and boat tours

Lake Shkodra provides the perfect location for wwimming, stand-up paddle boarding and boat tours from Shiroka to the Buna Bridge, it's the perfect place to cool off in the heat of summer. You can also enjoy a walk in Skiroka to the Church of San Rocco or a visit to an exhibition on the lake's biodiversity.

Drive the famous Top Gear road in Malësi e Madhe

Top Gear fans can follow the lead of the show's presenters when driving into the Albanian Alps towards Lepushe via Malësi e Madhe. There's an iconic road which was featured in The Albanian Road Trip (also known as the Mafia Road Test) by Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond, and James May for the 16th season of the show.

Try locally produced cheeses at Veleçiku Dairy

Cheese is very popular in Albanian cuisine and you'll be served it at almost every meal, but why not make a stop at Veleçiku Dairy for a tour to see how the cheese is actually produced? Combined with a cheese tasting and a chance to sample the delicious range of cheeses, I highly recommend. There's lots of unusual flavours and my favourite was the sage.

Hiking in Lepushe and the Accursed Mountains

There are countless hikes and walking trails to explore in the Albanian Alps and Lepushe is at the centre of lots of these routes. Easier hikes start from just 2 km to Lepusha Waterfall or an hour an 30 minutes hike to Koprrisht Cave and Waterfall. Enjoy one of Albania's most picturesque alpine villages and access to the Accursed Mountains including bigger hikes such as Maja e Vajusha, the Peak of Berizhdol, Gerben Peak and Maja e Trpjanit.

Boat tour of Syri i Sheganit & the Blue Eye

Enjoy a peaceful foray around the border with Montenegro teeming with birds and wildlife. Cut through the crystal clear waters in a boat ride around Syri i Sheganit, leaving ducklings waddling along the shoreline. Take a visit to The Blue Eye and the freezing waters at the source – are you brave enough for a swim with the locals?

3 Day Itinerary for Shkodra & Malësi e Madhe

Need a quick itinerary for a few days exploring North Albania in Shkodra & Malësi e Madhe? I've got you – here's the exact itinerary I followed on my trip – including where you need to eat, stay and best things to do in the region.

Day 1

• Travel from Tirana to Shkodra
• Check in at Hotel Aleks
• Dinner at Bar Restaurant Elita
• Live music in the streets of Shkodra and lakeside promenade

Day 2 

• Breakfast at Hotel Aleks
• Guided morning walk in Shkodra's city centre & visit the City Museum
• Visit Shkodra Castle for 360º panoramic views and 2,500+ years of history
• Lunch at Pelikani Kaçurrel in Zogaj – a fishing village on the banks of Lake Shkodra
• Visit a traditional weaving workshop in Zogaj where handmade rugs are crafted on looms
• Swimming, stand up paddle boarding and boat tours from Shiroka to the Buna Bridge
• Options include a walk in Skiroka to the Church of San Rocco or a visit to an exhibition on the lake's biodiversity
• Drive to Lepushe via Malësi e Madhe
• Stop at Veleçiku Dairy for a tour & to sample locally produced cheeses
• Stop at mountain viewpoints for sunset views
• Check in at Hotel Alpini, Lepushe
• Dinner at the hotel featuring local specialities including Mishavina cheese – part of the Slow Food Presidia
• Stargazing at the hotel & a campfire

Day 3

• Breakfast at the Hotel Alpini
• Morning hike through Lepushe – one of Albania's most picturesque alpine villages
• Visit a waterfall on the hike
• Start the journey back to Shkoder
• Stop in Tamara to shop for local crafts, go swimming and enjoy views of the Cem River
• Lunch at Syri i Sheganit on the border with Montenegro immersed in nature
• Boat tour of Syri i Sheganit & the Blue Eye
• Time for swimming & relaxing
• Visit Salvia Nord, a local producer of lavender, sage and medicinal herbs
• Return to Shkodra and check in at Hotel Aleks
• Dinner at Arti i Zanave – a social enterprise restaurant which supports women survivors of domestic violence

Day 4

• Breakfast at the hotel
• Departure to Tirana