Visiting Pogradec takes you to the border between Albania and North Macedonia – Lake Ohrid is actually divided in two by the border line which has in the past been heavily guarded on either sides of the lake to prevent anyone passing. Expect spectacular views as you drive the 2.5 hours from Tirana to reach this charming city on the banks of the lake, and a warm welcome when you arrive in this creative hub.
Pogradec is a historical city but has the charm of a village filled with local arts and crafts, historical buildings and local eats. Meanwhile, Lake Ohrid provides a peaceful backdrop with vast remote sections of the lake where you will find nothing but farmland, tiny fishing villages and beautiful old churches dotted in the countryside. If you're looking for a taste of authentic Albania, this is the perfect way to experience it.
This part of my Albania trip was a press trip with Green Adventures In Albania – GAIA Albania, in collaboration with VIS - International Volunteering for Development, COSV - Coordinamento delle Organizzazioni per il Servizio Volontario and Agenzia Italiana per la Cooperazione allo Sviluppo - Sede di Tirana but all opinions remain my own.
Visiting Pogradec and Lake Ohrid? Here's where you'll find:
- Why should I travel to Pogradec?
- The History of Pogradec
- Albanian Mythology – Myths and Legends of Pogradec
- Tips For Finding Cheap Flights To Albania
- Travelling to Pogradec – How To Get To Pogradec
- Where To Stay In Pogradec – Best Hotel In Pogradec
- Where to Eat in Pogradec – Best Restaurants in Pogradec
- The Best Things To Do In Pogradec
- 3 Day Itinerary for Pogradec and Lake Ohrid
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If you are planning to visit Pogradec & Lake Ohrid (or if I've just convinced you...), I recommend spending at least 2-3 days in Pogradec to allow time for exploring the city and surrounding villages, visiting the UNESCO World Heritage area, art galleries, visiting the Royal Tombs and, of course, eating delicious food. Keep reading for my detailed travel guide to Pogradec and Lake Ohrid / Lake Prespa including tips on the best places to stay, best places to eat and the best things to do.
The History of Pogradec
Did you know that the Pogradec area has been inhabited since ancient times with human traces dating back to the Neolithic Age (6000BC)? Later, the area was considered the epicentre of the First Illyrian Kingdom between the 5th and 4th centuries before falling to the Roman Empire after a three year war. In 359, when the Roman Empire was divided into the Empire and the Byzantine Empire which took over Pogradec. But, did you know that the territory wasn't always named Pogradec? It was later in the 9th century when the city was named Pogradec – previously a settlement built under the Illyrian city of Enkelana, the name was slavicised in a Bulgarian invasion and became "Pod grada" which is now known as Pogradec.
The city is nestled at the edge of Lake Ohrid, which covers a vast area of 358 km² and is located at an altitude of 695 m above sea level. The lake is home to several endemic species including aquatic herbs and fish, along with providing a home for more than 25 species of bird. The area feels wonderfully remote and many of the banks of the lake are actually just taken up by crops and farmland, leaving the wildlife to thrive.
Albanian Mythology – Myths and Legends of Pogradec
You can't visit the Pogradec Region without learning about the area's rich folklore traditions and starting with the myths and legends of Pogradec is a great place to start. During my visit to Albania, I was given a copy of the "Tales from the Lake of Legends" booklet which was produced by the young people of Pogradec to share Albanian mythology from the area. The booklet shared legends and tales from Pogradec including:
- The Lost Treasure of Kamja
- The Prayer of Kamja
- The Swan of the Lake
- The Heavenly Paradise of Voloreka
- The Hope of Drilon
- The Birth of Lin
- The Love of Lake Lihnida
- The Tears of Prespa and the Dry Mountain
- The Divine Creation of the Lake
- The Extraordinary Stone of Kamja
- Saint Marena Fulfills the Prayers of Believers
- The Stones of the Newlyweds: The Curse
- The Superstition of Wedding Guests
- The Treasure of the Golik Bridge
- The Hidden Treasure of the Llënga Canyon
If you're interested in learning more about these stories, click to read Tales from the Lake of Legends online here.
Tips For Finding Cheap Flights To Albania
If you're searching for cheap flights to Albania – always be sure to start with Skyscanner! There are two different flight options to reach your destination:
Fly from London to Tirana
One option is to book a flight from London to Tirana – the capital city – then hire a car and drive to Pogradec. This is the option I took and I met the group I travelled with in Tirana for the beginning of the trip after flying solo with Ryanair from London Stansted. There are currently around 49 flights weekly from London to Tirana and you can fly with airlines including Wizz Air, Ryanair. and British Airways. The cheapest return flight to Tirana is just £31 and November is the cheapest month to fly, with the flight taking around 3 hours.
> Find cheap flights from London to Tirana
Fly from London to Corfu
If you would like to take a longer trip, there is the opportunity to fly from London to Corfu and spent time on the island before catching a 30-40 minute ferry across to Sarande, on the Albanian Riviera. There are 43 flights weekly from London to Corfu available with airlines including easyJet, British Airways and TUI – the flight takes just 3 hrs and 16 mins. Return flights start from £62 and the cheapest month to fly is November.
> Find cheap flights from London to Corfu
Travelling to Pogradec – How To Get To Pogradec
Hiring a Car in Albania
If you're visiting Albania and plan to explore several different areas and particularly more remote parts like Pogradec, I recommend hiring a car in Albania. Pogradec is located 2.5 hours drive from Tirana and is accessible by bus, but if you wish to venture out to areas like the Royal Tombs and some of the best places to eat in the area, you will need transport to reach some of the destinations. Car hire starts from just £21 per day and generally the roads are good in Albania – in many places much better than UK roads – they were certainly much better than I expected and it was only driving on the mountain roads in the North which proved at all stressful.
If you would like to hire a car in Albania – I recommend booking through Discover Cars which I did for the latter half of my trip and my hire vehicle was booked through AbbyCar.
Travel by Bus from Tirana to Pogradec
If you prefer to travel by bus, there are buses available leaving at all times of the day so check to see what time you would like to leave. A bus ticket from Tirana to Pogradec costs 450 Leke (3.70 euros) for a one-way ticket and the bus is supposed to take around 2.5 hours or less – however please remember that you are on Albanian time and things tend to take longer than you expect so allow extra time for your journey.
Where To Stay In Pogradec – Best Hotel In Pogradec
If you're looking for a hotel in Pogradec, Hotel Driloni provides a perfect base in Tushemisht with a swimming pool and spacious rooms. The hotel is also located on the lakeside promenade within walking distance from the town and directly. next to a beautiful park and restaurants. The hotel also has plenty of parking if you are travelling with a hire car.
Where to Eat in Pogradec – Best Restaurants in Pogradec
If you're looking for delicious and authentic dining experiences when travelling to Pogradec and Lake Ohrid, you need to try these recommendations – I've found the five best restaurants in Pogradec and Lake Ohrid. These range from traditional Albanian cuisine to fresh seafood at lakeside restaurants – there's something for everyone.
Bar-Restaurant Panorama
This remote local eat is well worth a visit and felt like the most authentic, local experience. Bar-Restaurant Panorama was located on the banks of the lake where you catch the boat to Maligrad Island and makes a perfect stop-off for a bite to eat. Expect lots of local seafood freshly caught from the lake, along with bread and salad.
Vila Art
Dine on traditional Albanian cuisine in a historic villa. Vila Art was former dictator, Enver Hoxha's lakeside summer house in the 1970's – make sure you learn a bit about the communist history of Albania when visiting by visiting the museums and former bunkers located in Tirana and Sköder.
Bujtina Pelion
This was one of my favourite dining experience in the area – Bujtina Pelion is a brand new restaurant with spectacular views across the Albanian countryside and the Illyrian Royal Tombs. Their farm-to-table approach is evident in the freshness of their food and complementary flavours. I loved that the ladies were freshly preparing the traditional Albanian pie dish of Lakror for us, we could even watch and help in the kitchen. Don't miss trying the red wine they produce on-site – it was my favourite wine during my time in Albania.
Hani i Gështenjave
An agro-tourism site that combines delicious dining with accommodation – a great place to sit and enjoy the views across Pogradec with a glass of wine. Hani i Gështenjave serves traditional Albanian cuisine.
Restorant Camping Rei
My other favourite dining experience from my visit to Pogradec was Restorant Camping Rei, on the banks of Lake Ohrid. Lunch with the "King' of the lake, we tried local delicacy – carp – freshly fished from the lake and grilled in front of us. Served with delicious salads and bread, and a crisp, cold glass of rosé as we dipped our toes in the water and watched the fishermen. You can also stay here if you're travelling in a motorhome or have a tent and wish to camp.
The Best Things To Do In Pogradec
Boat Trip to Maligrad Island
Did you know that you can take a boat ride across Lake Ohrid / Prespa to experience this UNESCO World Heritage site and witness the incredible biodiversity of the area? The area is renowned for its beauty and endemic species including aquatic herbs and fish, plus 25 species of bird. By taking the boat ride across the lake, you can also enjoy views across to North Macedonia before stopping at Maligrad Island to explore. On the island you can see ancient wall paintings before visiting the Church of Saint Mary nestled in a circular cliff. The church dates back to 1369 and was built by local noble, Kesar Novak.
Explore Lin Village and take a Boat Tour
Don't miss a village to beautiful Lin Village where the local women will welcome you to try their freshly made Lakror. Wander up the steep cobbled streets to the Basilica where you can view ancient mosaics dating back to the 5-6th century. The village is full of pretty stone cottages and preserved homes with gardens overflowing with colourful flowers. You can also take a boat trip from the village which takes you around the 8,000 year old archaeological site.
Vineyard Tour & Wine Tasting
One for the wine lovers – visit Grabovac Winery for a full cellar and vineyard tour followed by a wine tasting! They have some delicious red wines that I recommend trying (and I loved that they let you free pour for the tastings!)
Rakia Making Demonstration
If you're interested in learning about the process of making the local liqueur, Rakia, make sure you visit The Tree House where they show you the whole process. Rakia is the well-loved drink of Albania and you have to try it at least once when you visit (even if it is a tad too strong for me!)
Experience Local Art & Handicrafts
Visit the TASO Art Gallery which is full of works by one of the most famous painters in Albania before heading to ICCKA handicraft – a family-run wood art business spanning four generations of tradition.
Explore the Royal Tombs of Selca (Selcë e Poshtme)
Tucked away in the Albanian countryside surrounding Pogradec, the ancient Illyrian site of the Royal Tombs of Selca dates back to the Iron Age and Roman Empire. There's a beautiful walk up the hill to the ancient site and while the tombs are merely stone shelters now – the views are spectacular! Don't forget to stop at Bujtina Pelion for lunch after your visit.
Visit The Golic Bridge
If you're passing, you need to stop at The Golic Bridge where the river is a crystal clear blue. This 17th century double span stone bridge is part of the ancient Via Egnatia, which would have welcomed trade and travellers from across Albania and beyond.
3 Day Itinerary for Pogradec and Lake Ohrid
If you don't have time to plan a full itinerary for your visit to Pogradec and Lake Ohrid, here's the itinerary I followed during my visit to the area which allowed plenty of time for exploring and relaxing. Check out this 3 Day Itinerary for Pogradec and Lake Ohrid:
Day 1:
- Travel from Tirana to Pogradec (around 2.5 hours)
- Enjoy a coffee at Bar Pelikani, a lakeside cafe in Pogradec
- Drive to Pustec (around 1 hour)
- Lunch at Bar-Restaurant Panorama – on the western shore of Lake Ohrid / Prespa – UNESCO World Heritage site
- 20 minute Boat trip to Maligrad Island to visit the Church of Saint Mary dating back to 1369
- Drive to Tushemisht (around 1 hour)
- Check in at Hotel Driloni
- Visit the TASO Art Gallery and ICKA Handicraft
- Dinner at Vila Art
- Wander along the lakeside promenade
Day 2:
- Breakfast at the hotel
- Drive to Golic Bridge, a 17th century bridge on the ancient Via Egnatia
- Explore the Royal Tombs of Selca (Selcë e Poshtme)
- Watch a demonstration of tradtional Rakia making at The Tree House
- Traditional Lunch at Bujtina Pelion
- Drive to Grabovica
- Wine tasting & Vineyard Tour at Grabovac Winery
- Relax by the Hotel Driloni swimming pool
- Dinner at agro-tourism site, Hani i Gështenjave
Day 3:
- Breakfast at the hotel
- Drive to Lin Village (around 30 minutes)
- Explore Lin Village and walk to the basilica to visit the 5-6th century mosaics
- Try the Lakror made by the local ladies
- Take a boat tour around the 8,000 year old archaeological site of Lin, Lake Ohrid
- Lunch at Liqeni I Ohrit
- Drive back to Tirana (around 2.5 hours)
