The 'C' word on everyone's lips right now and the one we're all sick of – Coronavirus has taken over everyone's lives and mental health in the last few weeks. I don't want to add to the constant noise of the media-induced panic we're faced with. More to share my own backpacking experiences from Central and South America during this time. As some of you may know, I made the decision to fly home to the UK after things escalated in Colombia over the last week. It's a decision I'm glad I made. But knowing how many backpackers and travellers are affected. I wanted to share my experiences and best travel advice for Central and South America right now.
I'm not inviting criticism and comment on my own decisions. As I've seen full well over the last few weeks, any form of panic brings out the keyboard warriors in force. This blog is not a place for that. I simply want to focus on what is happening to the travellers caught up in the border closures as the pandemic starts to extend it's grasp to the continent. Being a backpacker means being in a privileged position. I want to take this opportunity to remind anyone who is considering travel right now, that not everyone has healthcare, money and privilege to escape Covid-19 in this way. Please be sensitive and mindful when making travel decisions at this time. And remember these decisions affect a lot of people – not just you.
This was the first part of Central America where the Coronavirus really touched my little travel bubble. You see, when you're at home in the UK, it's easy to get swept up in the panic and the chaos. After all, you're constantly bombarded by the media on TV, in the papers and on the radio. But in Central America, it's easy to cut yourself off. That is exactly what I had done for the weeks previous due to my travel schedule. It was easy to be unaware of the mounting panic and the scale of the problem.
But when I crossed the border between Guatemala and El Salvador. Medics stopped our bus at the border and took all of our temperatures. They quizzed us all about our recent travels and home countries. It was so strange, it seemed so far removed from the life we had been living over there. But it was an early sign of what was to come with both countries being among the first over there to close borders.
It was several countries later when I next felt the effects of Covid-19. I spent just over a week in Panama City and in that week, the situation escalated a lot. With the number of cases growing (still only 30 confirmed at that stage) schools and universities were closed. Also music venues and large gatherings were closed down. People started to wear masks, supermarkets had sanitiser at the doors. A man flinched away when I coughed behind him in the queue.
Then, overnight, the San Blas Islands closed. This was entirely understandable as the indigenous Kuna people who live on the islands may be more susceptible to Coronavirus due to lack of exposure. But sadly it also meant the islands closed just days before I was due to spend a few days there. It also meant my plans to sail down to Colombia with a company I was working with were cancelled. I don't disagree with the decision at all, it was the right thing to do. But it was the first big travel disruption I experienced and was just a few days before the borders started to close.
I was in Colombia for just four days and in that time, the situation across Central and South America blew up. Borders closed across four countries in Central America with many forced to flee across borders from Honduras. Many others are now stuck indefinitely, unable to fly home or travel to a country with open borders. Within days, Colombia started to talk about Covid-19 border closures and enforced a 10pm curfew. Overnight, that curfew changed to 6pm, and 24/7 on weekends.
The panic spread through the hostels as some accommodations closed and others cut back to 60% capacity for safety. Restaurants were only allowing max 10-12 people in and everyone was sitting 2m apart, then a lot of restaurants closed entirely. The queues outside the supermarkets were curling around the block. The streets became quiet and backpackers panicked, buying flights home and sending the prices soaring as airlines shut down flight paths.
Before the situation blew out of control – I had made the decision to stay in South America and wait it out. I'm not inviting judgement on this, I simply want to explain my reasons because I know many other travellers out there had the same mindset. I had read all of the available information and advice, which changed on an almost daily basis. But I tried my best to make an informed decision about the situation.
My original plan was to meet with a group of friends for a trip we had already planned, but instead of travelling, we would rent a house somewhere and self-isolate together. This way we would be a group, we could look after each other if anyone did get sick and most of all, we would avoid travelling at such a risky time. This would cause minimal spread of the virus, and put us at minimal risk of catching it.
I also had an extremely good travel and health insurance policy which would support healthcare if it were needed. I know that South American healthcare systems may not quite be the same standard as the UK. But as healthy, young and fit people, we were already at a much lower risk of catching Coronavirus. And I also know the extreme pressure the NHS must be under at the moment – it's hard enough to get an appointment at the best of times. And finally, the number of cases across South American countries was significantly lower than those of the UK and Europe. Which means even flying back to the UK, I would be placing myself and others at great risk of catching Covid-19.
But things don't always go to plan and Coronavirus is anything but under control. So the decision I had made just days before quickly became impossible as my friends and I were separated by border closures at opposite ends of the continent. One was stuck in quarantine in Chile, another in Argentina while I was up in Colombia. It wasn't safe or possible to reunite, so we had to think about other options. But before I could make another decision, Colombia made the choice for me.
The country closed its borders to all but residents, which meant I could either stay there until the end of May, or come home. I chose to come home for the following reasons:
I know of many European backpackers who tried to escape the border closures, only to find they were refused entry elsewhere. An American friend leaving Honduras to get to Guatemala where she could stay safely reported German and Italian backpackers being refused entry at the border. I also have a friend who is stuck in quarantine in Chile. I've heard of huge groups of Israelis, UK and Dutch backpackers stuck in Peru. The country closed its borders and they are all desperate to get home. Some are trying to work with the government to arrange transport.
For those who have managed to book flights, these journeys are often 40+ hours long, containing multiple flights, stresses over visas and border closures, and even refused entry. I know my own journey back to the UK (I'm currently writing this halfway through at JFK airport) has been a nightmare to book and take. Flight prices were also skyrocketing due to so many booking at once and the lack of availability with flights not able to land at many European destinations. Many were unable to find flights and have been left stranded, having to stay and wait it out.
I'm not a medical professional, so I won't offer health advice. But when it comes to travel, Central and South America is a no-go right now, as is much of the world. And yet, I keep seeing backpackers and travellers posting on Facebook groups asking if it's possible to go. I want to stress that the vast majority of the continent is closed due to border closures. There is a good chance the rest will follow suit shortly.
If you're considering travelling to this part of the world – PLEASE DON'T. Now is not a time for travel, by travelling you are putting yourself and others at great risk of contracting Coronavirus. If you do get ill, you will be placing delicate healthcare systems under even greater pressure. If you do decide to go, you will be very limited on your travel anyway as most of the bigger tourist attractions are closed including national parks. Plus shops, restaurants, hotels and hostels are closing up fast.
If you are smart, you will save your health and that of others from risk of exposure. You will save your money and your time by staying at home and waiting Covid-19 out. Wait until the world is healed and trust me, the travel prices will be low for a long time. Something like this can really decimate the travel industry and it is already feeling the effects. The discounted prices you see now will still be available for months to come while quarantines take place worldwide.
If you are going to make decisions, please base them on factual information and health advice from sources such as the following. Please don't buy into the media hysteria – make calm and sensible decisions based on the facts.
Also, look up the relevant advice and border closures for the country you might be stuck in. This is easy to google and find up-to-date information about border closures. Here are some previous blog posts that you might find helpful:
I want to be the one to speak up and say, it's not selfish to be sad. I'm absolutely devastated to have to cut the trip of a lifetime short. It doesn't mean that I don't agree that it's the right decision. And it doesn't mean that I'm not putting everyone's health first. But this has been a huge blow to the lives of many who had weddings, holidays, birthdays, travels and even moving abroad planned for the year. This doesn't detract from the fact that people have lost their lives. And I agree that such a colossal waste of life is far more important. But that doesn't devalue our emotions.
I'm sick of seeing people post that it's selfish to feel sad or disappointed at what you've missed out on. We're all just human and you know what? In a confusing and scary time, it's okay to be gutted that your life has been put on hold. It's okay to feel scared and lonely, or to not know what to do. It's okay to not feel yourself and it's okay if you do. My point is, we've all been through a lot over the last few weeks and it doesn't show signs of slowing down. So just know, whatever you are feeling is okay, and we're all going through the same. So less judgement of others and a LOT more kindness please and thanks.
At the moment, I have put everything on hold while I wait to see what happens. I have two lovely weeks of quarantine where I'll try not to go insane and then I'll be taking each day as it comes. I'm focusing on being home with my family and taking a break from travel. During this time, I will focus on some other projects and work for a few months. Hopefully by the end of the summer things will have calmed down a bit. My plan is to travel again once Coronavirus is under control and it is safe again. I will finish my travels in South America. I also have a working holiday visa for New Zealand sitting in my emails. But I'm prioritising health and safety – so watch this space.
If your travels been affected by Coronavirus – leave a comment and share your own experiences. Has Covid-19 cut your trip short, or are you waiting it out abroad?
An absolute must-visit for any travellers heading to Costa Rica – Monteverde Cloud Forest Nature Reserve completely blew me away. One of the wildest, purest landscapes I have been lucky enough to hike during five years of travel. Yes, Costa Rica is touristy, but it's easy to feel like you're the only traveller in the forest, lost somewhere high in the clouds. After exploring the hotter and more humid areas of the country, Monteverde was a sunny mountainous escape with fresh breezes of the crisp, clean air.
The sound of birdsong and the beating of a hummingbird's wings rang clear on the breeze. The damp earthy smell of the trails, the odd tree root stretching out across the path and the spray of raindrops as the trees moved in the breeze. This curiously misty canopy was the perfect place for animals to hide away, watching on as the travellers hiked the paths. Monteverde was a place I was dying to visit long before I ever set foot in Central America and it certainly didn't disappoint.
There's a reason Monteverde is on every traveller's must-see list when they come to Costa Rica. Monteverde actually means Green Mountain – and it's a place that could easily inspire the myths and legends of days gone by. Stepping into the forest feels like stepping back into the Jurassic era. Witness trees that have stood for hundreds of years, vines and creepers inching their way along the branches. Moss growing on every surface, and every shade of green you can imagine, and more.
The fresh clean air clings to your lungs and your skin is damp from the second you enter the trees. On the forest floor are the remains of trees of times gone by, and yet they live on by fuelling the next generation of saplings. The Monteverde Cloud Forest, or Bosque Nuboso Monteverde as it is also known, is one of the most eco-diverse places I have ever visited. It has masses of wildlife in all shapes and sizes, from frogs, birds and insects, to snakes, monkeys, sloths and even cats! Although it's rare to see these. Birdwatchers flock to the area to spot and study unique species.
Read: Planning your trip to Saxon-Switzerland National Park
If you're travelling from San José, getting to Monteverde is the cheapest and easiest. You can arrive by public bus, the most cost-efficient option and perfectly comfortable. The bus runs twice daily, once in the morning and once in the afternoon, and it takes around 4.5 hours. From San José, the bus leaves from the Downtown station, Terminal 7-10 and runs with Transmonteverde.
If you have visited nearby La Fortuna, you can get a shuttle to Monteverde, but not a direct bus. This is the route I took and the shuttle – which I booked via Selina Hostel for $26. These run at 8am and 2pm, and take around 3-4 hours to arrive. If you are travelling as a group, hiring a car may be the best option as splitting the cost gives you freedom and flexibility in your schedule, but on a budget.
Read: Envision 2020: Why go to a music festival solo?
It's important to remember that Costa Rica has a dry season (December to May) when prices are higher and attractions are busier. But this also means the best weather for hiking the Monteverde Cloud Forest and least rain. In the wet season (May to December), this is also possible, but the weather may be more unpredictable, and if rains are heavy, I imagine that some parts of the forest paths might be more slippery or even inaccessible. I visited at the beginning of March, and despite the weather being perfect, I found the park quiet and peaceful. It was easy to escape the tour groups and have whole trails to myself.
You can easily hike the entire Cloud Forest independently in one day, it took me from 9am until 2pm, others might be faster/slower. Or you can break up the trails across different days, but you will have to pay the entrance fee each time you enter. I recommend spending at least 2 full days in Monteverde – this gives you a day for the forest and a day to either enjoy the town, take a coffee tour or visit some of the other local attractions.
Entry to the Cloud Forest costs $26 per adult, this is payable in cash or by card. Discounts available for those with a student card, and the elderly/children.
You DO NOT need to take a tour. It is entirely possible to visit Monteverde Cloud Forest independently and to self-guide the trails. The tours are expensive, noisy and do not spot many animals (this seems to be the big draw for taking a tour). Checking with people who took the tours, they said they spotted birds, frogs and insects – I saw all of these independently. I much preferred visiting independently because it meant I could enjoy the peace and quiet while visiting. Instead, I could hear the birdsong, the wind in the trees, and my own thoughts! If you do decide to do a tour, read the reviews and do your research before booking.
There are various options available for getting to/from the nature reserve depending on your budget. Taxis are by far the most expensive and are not really necessary, but are an option if you prefer. I would really recommend either renting a car and driving yourself. However, please note the car park is quite a distance from the park entrance, so if you don't fancy the walk up the hill, you may want to rethink.
For those on a budget, I really recommend either taking the public bus or do what I did and book the shuttle. It costs $5 for a return ticket and they pick you up at your accommodation (you can choose to go at 7.30am, 8am or 9am) and then you can return at 11am, 2pm or 4pm. This worked perfectly for me and I went at 8am and returned on the 2pm bus, having seen everything at the park.
The most popular hike, and one that is suitable for all abilities with the most to see, is just under 4km and can take a while to complete as there is so much to see! This route takes in some amazing natural sights, a nature trail, the Sendero La Ventana viewpoint over the Continental Divide, plus the hanging bridge, and more incredible nature on the way back. It follows the Sendero Bosque Nuboso trail towards Sendero La Ventana, then heads to Sendero Camino and finishing up with Sendero Wilford Guindon trail.
Each trail is different and has unique sights along the way, plus the ever changing landscape as you move between different altitudes and walk from below the clouds, to right above them. It's a crazy feeling to stand above the canopy, and then to move down into the dense forest. If you're feeling athletic – there's also an option to add an extra 3.3km hike to the waterfall, which is definitely worth seeing, and you can build in the Sendero Tosi, Quebrada Cuecha and George Powell routes.
Overall completing these routes took me around 3 hours – not because the hike is difficult but because there is SO much to see and I kept stopping to take photos. It's an incredible place so make sure you give yourself the time to enjoy it and to really spot the animals/nature.
If you still have energy after this and fancy more of a challenge – there's another hike that will expect a slightly higher fitness level. It's still suitable for all abilities if you have the time to go slower, but expect steeper inclines – both up and down – plus slippery steps. Make sure you wear proper shoes for this one and take your time, plus take plenty of water.
Please note the Sendero Chomogo – Sedero Roble route is not signposted once you are on it, so it can be difficult to judge how far you have gone. Just keep following the trail, it's not as far as you think, 2.8km total and that includes revisiting the hanging bridge and Wilford Guindon trail. Allow time for this trail, I completed it in 45 minutes, but I had to rush for my shuttle bus so I did it at high speed. It was still beautiful – and very different to hiking the other trails. The nature you see along the way is very different and more tropical jungle feel.
The three main sights are the Sendero La Ventana (Continental Divide), the Hanging Bridge and the Waterfall. All of these are worth seeing and are highlights of the trails – easily combined into one hike. But there is also a lot to see on all of the trails along the way including spectacular views across the jungle/forest, into the canopy, spectacularly huge trees, vines and creepers, animals and much more. Don't rush your hikes, slow down and take in the view. Plus the slower and quieter you move, the more likely you are to see wildlife.
I have a high fitness level and love to hike so I found the paths pretty easy. Some were more difficult in places because they were steep or slippery, but generally they were all fairly easy and flat. The hardest one was the Sendero Chomogo – Sendero Roble hike because of the elevation and how steep/slippery it was. But anyone can do it, you just need to make sure you have the time to go slow and walk at a pace that works for you. But I saw kids and elderly people walking most of the trails with no issues – just remember to go prepared and wear appropriate clothing.
Here is your packing list for Monteverde Cloud Forest Nature Reserve:
It can get very damp, rainy and misty in the Monteverde Cloud Forest. If you are planning on taking expensive camera equipment with you – which you will definitely want in order to capture the beauty of the area. I really recommend making sure you have something to protect your gear with. While I visited, the weather was beautiful, so I found I was okay to just use my backpack and hands to shield my camera from the mist. However, I have heard it can get much worse – if this is the case when you visit, perhaps try lining your backpack/camera bag with a plastic bag if you don't have a waterproof cover for it.
My love of Monteverde didn't stop at the Cloud Forest, the town was a great place to spend a few days. I hadn't expected there to be much around but it proved to be a great little stop on my Costa Rican adventures. Though small, it has everything you need including supermarkets, great accommodations, a choice of international cuisine at the restaurants. There's a karaoke bar and another bar with live music each night, shops to browse, cafes, coffee tours and much more. I had a fab few days in the area and would really recommend a couple of days to really enjoy everything.
A lot of the hostels in Monteverde appear incredibly basic and outdated. I had friends stay at others and they complained about them being dirty or having uncomfortable beds. If you want comfortable and quality hostels in Monteverde, I recommend trying the following two:
If you're on holiday or have a bigger budget and prefer a private room/hotel, try the following options:
Have you visited Monteverde Cloud Forest – would you like to?
Ever wondered what it's like to be vegan in Mexico? Not sure if you can find the best veggie options or just worry about accidentally ending up with chicken tacos? This guide is the one for you. Travelling with any specific dietary requirements can be pretty difficult, but especially when you don't speak the language. For so many, this puts them off travelling to certain locations. But I want this guide to show you guys that the world is your oyster (or avocado, if you like).
Over the last five years of travel I've migrated more towards a plant-based lifestyle where possible. While always considering myself a "flexitarian" depending on the country I'm in. I won't eat meat, but I am open to sometimes eating fish or dairy products if there is nothing else. It's not always easy to stick to a vegan lifestyle. But it is worth it. I've never felt better than since I started focusing on plant-based meals. Around the world, there will always be countries where eating vegan/veggie is harder. But luckily Mexico is not one of these countries. Whatever your motivation for a vegan/veggie diet. I'm going to show you how easy it can be in this part of the world.
Read: Nine great tips for helping you to travel sustainably
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I've just spent a month travelling around Mexico, in the Riviera Maya/Yucatan part of the country. It's a beautiful part of the world and one I highly recommend to any traveller. A huge part of the cultural travelling experience over in Mexico is by far the food. Just because you're vegan, vegetarian or pescatarian, you shouldn't have to miss out! Luckily this part of Mexico has become a big centre for great vegetarian and vegan food so you'll be spoiled for choice. You just need to know where to look.
It can be super time consuming to track down restaurants that cater for your dietary needs. So often the very best vegan food is hidden away in a sea of meat-heavy restaurants. Last year, I stumbled on a great app that really has changed my travel food journey. HappyCow is the best way to track down the vegan/vegetarian and plant-based restaurants nearest to you at all times. Using it has meant that I have constant access to the most recent reviews of vegan restaurants, guides to healthy vegetarian food, natural food stores, vegan-friendly options nearby, recipes, and more.
While you do have to pay for the app, it is one of the best investments I have made as I use it on an almost daily basis. I have now used it across Europe, Asia and Central America and it has meant that no matter where I am, I can check local restaurants and whether they provide vegan options, it also gives me a guide to pricing and pics/reviews that have been uploaded by other app users. You can even browse through travel options and find vegan hotels, b&bs and resorts to stay at, for a vegan or vegetarian traveller – it's an invaluable tool.
Read: Top tips for staying in shape when you travel
You might not be fluent in Spanish, but it is important to learn a few phrases when travelling as a vegan in Mexico. It could mean the different between finding pork or beans in your tacos and nobody wants that surprise. Luckily, Spanish is a pretty easy language to pick up and learning these few phrases could make your life a lot easier.
Top tip: Always keep it simple, don't try to overcomplicate by asking too many questions. There are a lot of times when people may not speak English and the more you ask, the more likely they are to just agree with you. Focus on whether it contains "carne" and "queso" (meat & cheese).
Read: Five ways I'm looking after myself more this year
There are no end of amazing dishes to try and I love the creativity when it comes to making amazing vegan food over here. But here are my top 3 foods to try when travelling the region:
Top tip: Really make the most of the sauces. Most vegan Mexico restaurants/street food stalls I have been to have a fantastic range of sauces from the super spicy salsa verde/picante to the flavoursome chilli. If you're finding the food a touch bland, this is a great way to really spice up your meal.
If you can't live without a nice bit of queso – these are great options for you to try out
Top tip: A lot of vendors are happy to swap out meat for cheese or beans combination instead. Don't be afraid to ask, just make sure you check my key words guide above for the correct Spanish terms.
Whether you want a break from a meat-heavy diet or just prefer something fresher – these fishy options will be a great match for you.
Top tip: Don't be afraid of street food – usually it's the freshest and most flavoursome food you will find! It's also usually made fresh for you so you can easily ask the vendors to adapt the dish to your dietary needs.
With many travellers flying in and out of Cancun, there's a good chance you'll find yourself passing through here when travelling Mexico. The good news is that both the hotel zone and downtown areas are well-stocked with health and vegan/veggie restaurants.
My favourite was just a 10 minute walk when I was staying at Selina Hostel in the Hotel Zone – Natura Restaurant was underneath a hostel and offered a fantastic range of healthy and plant-based food options from breakfast to dinner and dessert. You should also check out Vegan Planet and Mora Mora in Downtown, Casa Tequila in the hotel zone and Greenverde Restaurant if you head to Isla Mujeres.
Playa was my favourite place for plant-based food. There were so many healthy options and great restaurants that were really creative with the food. My absolute favourite was La Senda Restaurante and I ended up eating there multiple times and always loved the food. The vegan mushroom alfredo zucchini pasta and the vegan tacos were amazing.
Also check out Bio and Natural which has two branches across the city and also sells vegan products as well as food. Dr Juice for detox programmes and nutrition-based medicine and juices. Comet 984 if you fancy gorging on 1950's diner style vegan fast food like hot dogs and burgers or 100% Natural for vegan salads, sandwiches, juices and more.
The home of laid-back healthy living was a haven of plant-based and vegetarian food. I could have eaten at a different restaurant for every meal and still had some left over to try! My favourite place was La Hoja Verde. It had such a range of juices, smoothie bowls and salads which I was craving.
Also try Aguacate Limon – an all vegan taco shop for those Mexican flavours. Farm to Table is a little bit more pricy but has a real focus on sustainability and all organic waste from the restaurant is used to grow fruits and veggies. Co.ConAmor is great for the raw food lovers and also sells vegan and sustainable products. I could easily list countless more options – if you're interested, I really recommend the Happy Cow app – you will be spoilt for choice.
A much smaller stop, there wasn't as much choice around this area. However if you're a pescatarian you will be fine as there is a lot of fresh seafood available here including lobster and fish. My favourite vegan/veggie spot is one that doesn't come up on the Happy Cow app – it was called Lil and was on the main street, a tiny place on a corner with a hammock outside. The woman who runs the place is so lovely and creates tacos, wraps, salads from the freshest vegetables – something that is really missing elsewhere in the area.
For the veggies/vegans, your main four options are Ibiza Sunset – apparently the chef there is vegetarian himself and happy to create vegan plates. Perlas and Cocos, Pitaya Beach Club and Blue Kay which is actually the hostel I stayed at – I didn't try the food but but it comes in huge portions and has veggie options available.
Bacalar was one of my favourite places in Mexico and well worth a stop! The veggie/ vegan Mexico food here is much better than Mahahual and you'll definitely be able to find some great options. I tried out El Manatí which I was really excited about, it has a gorgeous garden at the back and you walk through an art gallery and shop to reach it. There was live music playing when I arrived and it was a great spot to work for a few hours. But the food was a bit disappointing.
I also tried Mango y Chile which was a plant-based restaurant selling burgers and organic coffee, the burgers were great. Other options include Pasión Turca for Turkish and Middle Eastern food, Enamora for breakfast and café dishes and La Playita which has incredible (if a little expensive) food. There was also an amazing taco shop on the main square called Mister Taco which has some of the best vegan Mexican food I've tried. They have a range of meat, seafood and veggie/vegan tacos available.
It's never ideal but anywhere you travel, there is always a chance you might not find food that fits your dietary requirements. Perhaps you're sick of fried food or just want something super simple. Or perhaps you just visit an area that isn't very touristy and doesn't cater for a vegetarian or vegan Mexico diet. Another option if you want more control over what you are eating, is to stay somewhere with a kitchen and prepare your own meals. If you're looking to save money when travelling, this can be a good option.
While hotels won't offer this option, there are plenty of Airbnbs and hostels that will have a kitchen for you to use. I've previously stayed in the Selina hostels, which are scattered all across Mexico, including Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum. These hostels always come with a fully equipped kitchen area and fridges to store and prepare food. You ca easily pick up supplies at the local markets if you want fresh fruit and veg, or pop to the supermarket and pick up pasta or anything else you might need.
Make sure you also take into account your budget. While eating out doesn't have to be expensive in Mexico – it actually has some of the cheapest street food I've found in Central America. It can quickly add up if you're eating out in vegan-specific cafés all the time. If you're on a lower backpacker budget, you will be best placed to focus on street food and communicating to the vendors that you want no meat or no cheese – there are a lot that offer vegetarian or vegan options. Alternatively, as I said above, you can cook for yourself – if you're travelling as a group or couple, this may be the best and cheapest option. If you're on a shorter holiday or have a bigger budget, enjoy dining out on all the amazing vegan and vegetarian food.
Are you vegan or vegetarian? Have you been to Mexico? Would you like to try authentic Mexican food?
For some of us, the idea of going to a music festival solo is our worst nightmare. Who would we dance with? Would it be the same without a gang of mates to camp with? The truth is, in today's society, we are constantly surrounded by people and of us never spend any time on our own. But how are we supposed to know who we really are when we're constantly defined by the people we surround ourselves with? Music festivals are one of the few places that offer total escapism to be genuinely ourselves and meet likeminded souls. So it actually would be the perfect place to dive into solo life and make new connections along the way.
I'll hold my hands up and admit, before this month, I had never been to a music festival alone despite travelling the world solo. I had always previously made plans to meet friends or had arrived with a group of mates. However, last year after seeing all the incredible photos and videos of Envision Festival in Costa Rica, I knew I had to make sure I was at the 10 year anniversary celebration in 2020. Before I had even booked my trip to Central and South America, I had booked my festival ticket and for the first time ever, I didn't invite anyone I knew to join me.
You guys all know I'm a pretty independent woman, but after a pretty tough year last year, I really wanted to remind myself of why I love being on my own. Solo travel has done so much for me over the years and has really rescued me in so many ways. My love of music festivals is clear from the countless events I've attended over the years and I love nothing more than losing myself in the creativity and music of a four day event. So it seemed a perfect combination to spend time in a country I've always dreamed of visiting and to get to go to such an epic event.
Envision Festival is a explosion of creativity, freethinking, yoga and arts mixed with a top line-up of international electronic DJs. Nestled between the Costa Rican beach and jungle, it's bursting with energy and love, and welcomes everyone, no matter where they come from, or where they've been. It's the most diverse festival I have ever attended, with people from all over the world, and brings a real magic to the universe. Expect total immersion in music, art, yoga, surfing, incredible talks and inspiring workshops. The festival is suitable for families and has a real culture of long-time festival goers who have supported the event from day 1. This year Envision celebrated its 10-year anniversary with the biggest and best yet event, which spanned from 4-7 days and beyond.
Knowing some people who attended the festival last year and camped, I was pre-warned about the crazy humidity and heat in Uvita. So I decided to book accommodation at nearby Yubarta Lodge. It offers private rooms, dorms and air conditioning, plus a swimming pool, kitchen and chill out areas just a 7 minute drive from the festival entrance. I was really glad to have booked accommodation – it meant I could cook food for myself, shower and have time away from the festival grounds. Those I knew who camped were stuck with the extra expense of showers (with no water pressure) and food costs inside the festival during the week. I also knew a lot of people who had booked accommodation through Airbnb if they had larger groups which is a also a great option.
This was super easy and I want to reassure anyone who is thinking of going to a festival alone. Before I had even left Nicaragua, I had met loads of people who were travelling to the festival the following week. We all made friends and swapped contact details so we could meet up while at the event. When I arrived in San José and caught the bus to Uvita, I met another load of people on the bus who were also going to the festival. And again, when I arrived at my hostel, it was full of festival-goers who became my main festival crew for the week. It's so easy to meet people, especially when you are on your own. All it takes is a friendly smile and a love for chatting to like-minded souls.
Check out this article: Tops tips for every solo travel situation
Travel between the festival and the accommodation as super easy and not too expensive thanks to a combination of Uber, taxis and lifts with friends who were driving. The max I was charged was around 10,000c for a late-night taxi back alone which is around £13.
This one was super easy – I was very impressed with Envision Festival and how well organised it was. From the clear signposting and easy entrance thanks to online tickets and their RFID scanner wristbands for drink/food payments. To the extremely impressive app which gave the full schedule, maps, information about shuttles and even a schedule planner where you could find out more details of each performer and add it to your personal schedule for a reminder on your phone. It was much better than other festivals I have previously attended because not only was it well organised but it was super small at just 7-9,000 people, which meant everything was close by and easy to find.
My number one reason and the reason why I decided to travel solo. I could have waited for a friend to decide to come with me, but then I could have been waiting a lifetime. Why should I wait and why should you? Don't miss out on the festival, or the trip of a lifetime, just because no-one else can afford the time or the money for it.
I didn't feel lonely once during the festival, before or after it. Being alone doesn't mean being lonely – there's a big difference. If anything, being alone gives you the energy, time and space to meet countless other people and it can actually be hard to get time alone!
If you're always with a group of mates, how do you expect to meet new people? A festival is the perfect opportunity to meet like-minded souls from around the world and to connect with people. Take the opportunity like I did and you'll make countless friends for life. I ended up travelling across the country with a group of friends I met at the festival and have planned to meet up with them later on in South America!
I know as well as anyone, going to a festival with a group of mates can be lots of fun. But it can also mean having to constantly compromise on which stage you dance at, which acts you see and it can mean not getting to see some of the talks or experience the yoga sessions you want to. But why compromise? You've paid a lot of money to be there, so you should be free to do what you most desire. Going solo means you get to experience the talks, the sunsets, the music and anything else entirely solo if you prefer.
The beauty of going to an event solo is that you have no ties to the people you meet. While it can be lovely to meet groups and hang out with them, it can also be nice to go off and do your own thing. So why not take advantage of this and flit between the various groups of friends you meet – join some at a stage when you want to dance, or head for food or yoga with others whenever you fancy. It can be a great way to experience a festival.
So many of us spend all of our time surrounded by people – friends, family, partners. It can be difficult to really be yourself, or to truly know yourself. Taking time on your own is an important part of life and getting to know yourself. A festival is the perfect place to really be yourself. To experiment with the person you want to be. Whether that's musically, spiritually, mentally or in any other capacity.
Whether this is purely going to the festival alone. Or you want to try something completely new to you. While at the festival, I took some time out to attend talks on topics completely new to me. It was amazing to experience these alone. I could really try and further my knowledge without the distraction of new friends, or anyone who wasn't into it. For those who find doing this intimidating. It can be a great way to release you from any internal judgement as well.
If you're new to solo life, solo travel or solo festivals. Attending a festival alone can be a great introduction to solo life. It's a less intimidating experience than booking a flight across the world. You can easily go to a festival on home turf. If you're in need of a boost, why not challenge yourself to try something new? Watch your confidence soar as you make new friends and grow your world.
Another great way to do it is to score a festival ticket by working at the event. I know loads of people who do this regularly and will work as performers, stage builders, pot washers, bar staff and even masseuses. It means getting a free or discounted ticket in exchange for a few hours work each day. It also means you have a ready made crew of friends on the staff.
One thing I really love about going to a music festival, is the potential. You meet so many incredible people, experience things that really open your mind to new ways of thinking and living. It's such a welcoming and inviting space for creativity and developing ideas. Over the years, music festivals have inspired huge changes in my life by educating me on important issues. They have brought me together with wonderful humans who inspire me daily and remain amazing friends several years later. Go to a music festival solo because it could be the making of you and could change your life. You never know what you could be missing out on.
Have you been to a music festival solo? Would you do it? What's your favourite music festival?
The silence of being high above the clouds, interspersed with the crackling of the camp fire. Murmurs of disbelief as the group gazed out upon the endless skies and the setting sun. Suddenly the echoing boom of nearby Fuego, demanding our attention as smoke billowed and red hot lava spewed from the nearby volcano. Nearly 4,000m high, it was difficult to tell whether it was the thinning air, or the view that had left us breathless. Here's why climbing Volcano Acatenango, in Guatemala, was one of my favourite ever travel experiences.
One of Guatemala's highest volcanoes – Acatenango stands at 4,000m high and offers epic views of nearby active volcano Fuego, which erupts every 10-15 minutes. For visitors to Antigua, the cobbled streets and beautiful architecture are already a draw. But for adventurous souls, Acatenango has become an experience that can't be missed. Now travellers can join a challenging but incredible hike up the volcano for sunrise, a once-in-a-lifetime experience you won't forget.
Over the last few years, it's become extremely popular for travellers passing through Antigua to complete the volcano climb. It's the challenge all the backpackers are talking about from the second you enter Mexico and all the way down to Guatemala. But what an epic experience – to climb a volcano and watch another live volcano erupting from camp, before ascending the summit for sunrise. It's a journey that has grown in popularity through word of mouth and now having experienced it, I can understand why. Nothing will ever compare to the experience and nothing I've ever done before even comes close to the Volcano Acatenango climb.
I won't lie, it's a hard climb. But nothing worth doing ever came easy in my opinion. It's important to not get swept up in the excitement and the hype, and to actually assess whether you are fit enough to do the climb. As the guides say, anyone can do it, but you need mental willpower to keep you going if you start suffering from the altitude. In the weeks leading up to the climb I was struck down with food poisoning and then a cold.
My normally strong, fit and athletic body was wiped out and although I was pretty much better by the time I did the climb, I could tell I was weaker overall. The climb is uphill, steep in places, includes some boulder scrambling near the top and in places the path is covered in volcanic gravel so the surface shifts and slides beneath you.
We had an amazing group and our guide Johnny, was the most patient and knowledgeable we could have asked for. The first day's hike was hard but he kept us motivated and as a team we made it to base camp. We stopped for a picnic lunch along the way and then spent a breathtaking evening at camp watching the sun set from high above the clouds as nearby Volcano Fuego erupted and spewed lava and smoke from it's depths. The stars exploded across the night sky and huddled around the camp fire with wine and hot chocolate, we were in awe of their beauty. It was truly nature in her element, and the following morning's sunrise was no exception.
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The Tropicana trip costs $65 USD which covers all your food, the guide, transport and accommodation at the base camp huts with sleeping bags/beds provided.
The Acatenango trek takes around 6 hours total – we did 4.5 hours the first day, with a 1 hour ascent to the summit the following morning. You can do the trek in one day if you don't have two days to spare or don't fancy the sunrise hike. Or you can also hire a private guide and do the trek overnight from midnight to 6am for sunrise like one guy I met.
However, I would really recommend the two-day trek if you have time. It definitely adds to the experience and takes all time pressure off so you can take as long as you need on the ascent.
Before this collaboration was even planned, I knew I was going to do the trek with Tropicana. From as far as Mexico, I was hearing glowing recommendations from those who had already experienced it. And those who hadn't done it with Tropicana were telling me I should make sure to do it with them and not the company they had used. Why does the company come so highly recommended?
The actual hike, I loved – the scenery is incredible and I had a fantastic group. However, I really struggled with the altitude. Myself and another girl who had recently had colds both found the thin air made it feel like someone was pressing on our lungs and we couldn't catch our breath. You never know how altitude will affect your body. I had taken altitude sickness pills beforehand and they definitely helped, but it was still a challenge.
I'm not saying this to scare you – don't let it put you off! Just be prepared and if you've been ill recently, take the time to rest up before the trek. If you're worried about altitude sickness, take the pills.
Out of any, I think this is the most important question to know the answer to before you take the trip. While the climate in Guatemala is pretty hot and tropical in places. When you get to the south, it is much fresher around Antigua and Lake Atitlan – I found myself wearing jeans and a jacket at night. So you want to be prepared for the colder temperatures when you ascend to 4000m. Luckily, I found myself actually very well prepared as I had already packed for all climates before leaving the UK, so I didn't have to borrow many clothes. But be aware that you don't need to take anything with you if you don't want. If you're only planning on this one cold weather activity – you can easily hire all the warm clothes you need with Tropicana.
My clothes packing list:
Out of all of these clothes, I just borrowed the gloves, the big waterproof jacket and a head torch. Everything else was stuff I had already packed. Just to stress – I wore ALL of these clothes to the summit. It was probably the most clothes/layers I have ever worn. I really recommend having lots of thin thermal layers. It makes a big difference and also makes it easier to peel off layers as you start the descent. Also, you can do the hike in trainers and it will be fine. I recommend walking boots, I much prefer them as they protect your ankles and offer sturdier support. But please don't be the idiot who does it in Converse or Vans.
Don't wear light colours or white – you'd be amazed how many people I saw rocking up in all white everything. You WILL get filthy. The volcano is covered in gravel, dirt, mud, sand and you will be climbing. I wore pretty much all black and was glad because it meant none of my clothes were ruined.
You are fed well on the Acatenango trip. We had breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus breakfast the next morning and some snacks/extras thrown in. For those wanting to know specifics – there were vegetarian/vegan options available. I was very impressed with the food, I hadn't expected it to be as good as it as.
We were also advised to bring a minimum of 4 litres of water – which was the perfect amount. 2l for day 1, then 1 litre for the summit climb. The other litre was for the descent and the previous evening. I finished my last swig of water on the bus back and felt like it was a perfect amount. You don't want to carry the weight of any more. Make sure to take snacks with you, it's good to have a boost while walking. I took the following:
If you're interested in booking the trip or learning more about the itinerary, you can find full Acatenango Trek details here on the Tropicana website.
Have you climbed a volcano? Would you do it? Would you like to travel to Guatemala?
